A small basic worm-farm can be made inexpensively using two buckets, one with a lid.
With many new activities it's often best to start on a small scale to see if it will sustain your interest; otherwise they will die from neglect. You could use an old bathtub but then you must make a lid of sorts to keep rainwater and rats out. But two-buckets is good way to begin.
Place your worm-farm in the shade, not where it's out of sight and out of mind. These are your pets and whilst they will up to a point humour you if you neglect them, they do require just a little attention.
In particular to be fed weekly and the worm-wee spread in your garden.
A worm farm in many ways is just a high-speed compost heap; everything happens faster. The little creatures eat their own weight in food every day, their fecal material containing highly beneficial substances for your plants.
Humic-acid in particular makes it easier for plants to absorbe both water and nutrients from the soil.
The process takes about six-weeks depending on how finely you chop up the waste from your kitchen and garden. Whole potatoes or butternut will take longer obviously, but you could cut them at least in two, penetrating the skin to the innards. In particular they love vegetables that have begun to rot.
The worms are living creatures so they must have plenty of air; so keep the lid of the top bucket loose. And periodically use a small fork to dig deep down into the mixture, twisting slightly to loosen the stuff and aerate it.
However if rainwater gets in they will drown so do not make holes in the lid. You could cover it with a bag during inclement weather.
The lower bucket must be emptied regularly. If the level of the leachate rises so that it begins to flood the upper chamber the worms may start to crawl out. Dilute it several times before pouring it onto your young seedlings.
Place a brick in the bottom of the lower bucket, to keep the upper one out of the worm-wee.
Fill the upper bucket as follows.
Feed your worms at least once a week with a bucket of kitchen waste. They love half-rotten potatoes, apple cores and butternut skins, for example; any greens will do, dead birds found in the garden or a mole. You can put eggshells in provided they haven't been boiled, teabags and basically all your peels and so on.
They will tolerate small amounts of bread and meat; no dairy-products.
Avoid onions, pineapples and citrus, though to be honest they are amazingly tolerant.
If you take a handful of the stuff in the bucket, and squeeze it, no water should drip out. If it looks a little dry, sprinkle with a watering-can. Generally the liquid from your kitchen waste is more than enough.
Too much water is the great enemy.
The worms will proliferate at an astonishing rate. Within a month or two you will be needing another small basic worm-farm; or feed them to your hens if you have any.
Use a small basic worm-farm to make your own vermi-compost and leachate; they will make a significant difference to a small patch of your garden. Later you may want to graduate to something larger like an old bathtub, or a more sophisticated wormery.
And turn this into a doggy-poo worm farm.
These are my worm-farms. Sourcing enough food for them is problematic.
Your greengrocer is often a source of food for your small basic worm-farm.
This complete small basic worm-farm can be purchased for R300 from Reko Hilton in the Midlands of South Africa. Find it on Facebook.
It comes with a 100 worms. You should never have to buy any again; cared for properly they will double in number every month.
Do you know the story of the Persian emperor who offered a nave a gift of rice? One grain on the first square of a chessboard, two placed on the second and four on the third; and so on. Or he could choose 64 bags. It's all about the power of exponential growth. Ask your high-school child how many months it will take you to reach a million worms!
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